A Foodie’s Nightout @ Mohammed Ali road!

Imagine walking through the streets at 2’0 clock midnight with streets full of people like it’s mid-day! Never seen anything like that, then my friends this place is a must visit for you! In the holy month of ramadan this street is bustling with foodies who in the hot and humid month of May visit to eat their heart out! If you’re a bunch of food lovers then Mohammed Ali road is the ideal destination!

Here I saw banners on the streets that Ramazan brings people together and how apt it was for us too! We are a group of friends who love food, travel and adventure! But taking time out from our busy schedules together took years. This foodtrail was ideal for us to spend time together relishing what we enjoy the most – food!

I feel the most essential part of any food trail is a big group (atleast more than 5 people). The advantages of good company are well known. But on a food trail you can try different varieties of food, when you order different items together and also finish the quantity without any wastage.

This place was pretty far from our homes and we usually get free late from work. So this was ideal for us as this street is open all night in Ramzan post iftaar ( breaking roza or fast). Saturday was finalized as we get the next day free for complete rest after a tiring nightout!

Local trains are a convenient mode of transport. If get down at Masjid station,you can reach Mohammed Ali road walking. We caught the last local for CST from Kalyan and reached there at 1am. The famous food street was crowded so much that it didn’t feel like night time!

The famous landmark – Masjid was glittering with colourful lights adding a beautiful glow to the surroundings. Entering the gully there’re many shops that throng both sides of the road and restaurants that sell mouth watering delicacies.

Every food point has its own unique taste and brand value! Do try the famous ones especially Bademiya for their special soups, kebabs, Zabaan, Gurda, Tilly, Dil and Bheja fry.

Zabaan fry

Seekh kabab

Chinese and grill for its Nalli nihari, seekh kababs and Biryani!

Nalli nihaari
Chicken Biryani

In Sweet shops Burhanpur Mawa jalebi is the one not to be missed.

‘Suleman usman mithaiwala’ has large varieties of sweets ranging from kalajamuns, rasgullas , Rabdi malai, mawa cakes, burfi, khaja, malai chaap, cham cham, jumbo malpuas to the famous Aflatoon mithai are absolutely mouth watering!

The Giant malpuwa

For meat lovers dont forget to try Hyderabadi haleem is a combination of goat’s meat cooked and minced with whole wheat, dals, garnished with dry fruits and crispy fried onions.

For all sweet lovers there is the famous sheer korma, phirni and different faludas for desserts.

We trailed till Bhindi Bazaar in search of the famous Taj icecream.

On the way we found a Pappu juice wala stall with quite unique frozen desserts. Dilwale coconut cream, musk melon, strawberry, dry fruits and mango cream were superb in taste and too visually tempting to resist.

Apart from the mouth watering delicacies and aromas, what makes this place unique is the overall experience that gives you the overall feel of Ramazan. Though fasting is an essential part but there’s more to it, good food, celebration with your loved ones and joy!

Like I said it brings everyone together be it meals or prayers.

The place when visited with amazing company is a complete euphoria of experiences.

What fascinated me since long is the dedication and commitment towards their religion by our Muslim bretheren. The market opens post sunset after iftaar and then closes again at sehri (suhoor/pre-dawn meal). They don’t care about routine timings or traditions but are true to their beliefs in Allah(God).

The whole area is overcrowded but still completely safe for non-Muslim men and women alike.

They in a way teach us various things.

The importance of self discipline when they start and end their fast (sawm) on time.

Abstinence from food and water (other things too). To control thirst for around 15 hours sounds brutal especially when Ramzan comes in peak summer season.

Ramazan is the 9th lunar month as per the Islamic calendar so every year it begins 11 days earlier than the previous.

It teaches us about sacrifices and how they are important even if it means forgoing petty pleasures in that process. Refraining from wordly desires for long term goals. The strength and tenacity they have is no different from a penance.

After the evening prayer in the masjid, the hefty meal post iftaar is sort of a blessing and usually broken by eating three dates. They’re thankful to the almighty for that food. They’re compassionate for the needy and poor alike as they offer generously extravagant and sumptuous meals free to destitutes.

So the fasting, charity and prayers these three pillars of Islam (out of five) are followed at the same place at Mohammed Ali road.

When you’re tired with the daily mundane work and need a break from monotony then this tour is for your visual and gastronomic awakening. It will rejuvenate your senses and satiate your soul.

It will remind you that you are one of the few fortunate people who are able to pay for all these choicest meals as you relish the bites.

When you are on your return journey, you can see tired people sleeping on the roads, you feel thankful that you have a lovely abode. A self-owned shelter, a protective roof and a cosy bed where you go into deep slumber after returning from a happening nightout that lingers through your memories like the flavours of Mohammed Ali road!

Quase-E-qazah…


Once I had read about Amir Khusro, one of the greatest poets ever, who in farsi said a couplet and which later after two centuries, was repeated by Mughal emperor Jahangir when he saw the beauty of Kashmir.

“Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast,
Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast”.

It means “If there is a paradise on earth, It is this, it is this, it is this”.

One of the most memorable trips ever – a visit to the heaven on Earth -The valley – as Kashmir  is commonly known – it’s a paradise with postcard perfect landscapes! Undoubtedly, Kashmir is one of the most picturesque locations in the country!

Gardens, landscapes and what not

I named my trail as Quase-E-qazah as this place has a varied range of colourful places like the rainbow (Quase-E-Qazah in Urdu means rainbow)! You get lush green flowery meadows with sunshine at one place and snow laden chilly land with mountains at another! Weather is unpredictable with varied view of places in every season! Each place looks different in different seasons! This is the uniqueness of Kashmir trip not seen at any other place! Different places with their spellbound beauty will leave you completely mesmerized and lure you to visit this place again and again!

Paradise on earth!

Although you feel like visiting this place again and again but when you are traveling for the first time, travel tips from experienced travelers do come in handy! We too would love to share our experience from our recent visit to this mesmerizing place!

Hacks for kashmir trip travel :

Number of days to stay :

If you’re planning for a relaxed trip then atleast 7-8 day trip is a must! Though nearby, every location has its own unique feature and should not be rushed upon. Especially with families and large groups the interplace travel time might be around 3-4 hrs per day so better enjoy with a no rush hassle free experience!

You can plan like this…

Day 1 – Morning arrival at Srinagar, check in and Srinagar sightseeing! Nishaad  chasmeshahi, Shalimar and Tulip garden, other places are pari Mahal and Shankaracharya temple!

Nishaat garden
Nishaat garden {Mughal garden} from outside
Chashmeshahi garden

Day 2 – Sonamarg visit -Takes around 4 hours or more, so overnight stay is a must! On the way visit Ganderbal and it’s beauty! Night camp fire can also be enjoyed at the hotel!

Sonamarg glacier
View from Sonamarg hotel…

Day 3 – Houseboat- Sonamarg return plus sightseeing if time and weather permits! On return check-in to houseboat at the Dal Lake!

Montreal group of houseboats
Beautiful and cosy…

Day 4 – Check out from the houseboat – visit charchinar (centre of Dal Lake) and remaining places/gardens of Srinagar missed on day 1!

Shalimar garden

Day 5 – Pehelgaam – takes around 3-4 hrs to reach! On the way visit Awantipura ruins, an archaeological heritage site! On the same day you can visit pehelgaam valley on pony – and have an overnight stay! On the way you can see many cricket bat making factories with fields of Kashmir willow trees from which these famous bats are made!

Avantipura ruins…

Day 6 – Pehelgaam check out and visit valley by union taxi! On return buy authentic Kesar, suits, stoles, shawls, dry fruits from popular local shops! Check in to Srinagar hotel!

Chandanwari valley

Day 7- Gulmarg visit – 2 hr drive to tangmarg, On the way see Asia’s highest golf course and enjoy gondola ride! You can enjoy snow activities at phase 1 at negotiable rates. Return back to Srinagar hotel!

Gulmarg gondola point

Return back or do visit the unexplored beauty of
Day 8- Doodhpatri visit- 2 hr ride with a route surrounded by lush green trees of pine, fir, Deodar, wild Chinar and Kashmir willow! Similar to mini Switzerland local Shepherds are seen with their flocks of sheep and local pony rides!

Doodhpatri land…

Choosing the month of travel:

April or May or June

School vacation time is the season of holidays and travel. If planning a kashmir trip in this season you might wonder but kashmir has a different beauty in every season!

The famous tulip garden is open only in the month of April, hence for visiting that you can plan in mid April. But it’s still winter there so it’s a bit chilly experience for people not accustomed to such weather. Occasional showers though part of every season might be experienced more in this season.

Tulip garden

For visiting lush green fields and early summer you can choose May or June. Late May or June is a good season for enjoying local fruits, especially large, juicy Apples! But you might find daytime little warm if you’re planning a trip away from local harsh summer.

The best of Flowers

Winter season from November to February/March for people who want to witness snowfall!

The unexpected spends :

The snow clad mountains and lush green meadows though appealing you can’t reach every place on your feet or with your hired vehicle! Yes! You need to book local taxis or ponies are there for adding adventure to your trip!

Ponies…

Sonamarg:
For experiencing snow at its best sonamarg is a must visit place! Though you can enjoy the beauty of mountains through your hotel windows (Hotel sonamarg glacier is surrounded by mountains in front and river with forests behind) there are two points to visit!
Thajwas glacier
You have to ride trained ponies for reaching the glacier, this I can guarantee is way different than your local horse rides! The up and down stony snowy path is a spine chilling experience!
This ride will cost you around 800-1000 per person.
Zero point is to be reached by a local union taxi.
The road adventure is similar to dune bashing at the desert! Per vehicle cost is around 3500 Rs.
Both although similar you can enjoy if you have plenty of time!
Like every tourist destination you’ll be pestered to no end by sledge men, photographers, and other local sellers! All this can easily cost you extra bucks at every place!

Pehelgaam
If you are still not sober from the thrill of pony ride in sonamarg,a pony ride more difficult awaits you in pehelgaam. The stony muddy path can beat any theme park experience! But horses are so intelligent that they reach the destination safely without their masters and the end result is an absolute bliss! The mini Switzerland Baisaran valley is worth the pain and fear of that path. Other vallies like Dune, Dubyan, Kashmir valley are on the way!
Cost per pony is around 1000 rs!

Pehelgaam…

Scenic valleys to be visited by taxi are The lovely Betaab valley along Naagin river, the snow filled chandanwari valley and lush green Aru valley.
Cost per vehicle is around 2000rs! The taxi guy might lure you to visit other vallies with some extra 1000 Rs, but can be avoided.

Aru valley

Gulmarg
The famous gondola ride is not to be missed. It has two phases.
Phase 1 : A snowy terrain with sport activities like skiing, bike ride and sledge ride! Gondola cable car ticket costs 740 RS per person (3 years and above full ticket).

Phase 2: 14000 feet above sea level is the highest peak, ticket costs around 900 per person!
All local activity rates are negotiable but can pinch your pocket.
They might insist on a guide to Gulmarg which is not a must if you are an all adult group. But for a family with children group it saves time and gives you company and helps to find  a cosy abode at -15*C!
Cost per guide around 300-500rs!

Gondola point
Phase 1…
Asia’s highest golf course is at gulmarg

All these snow laden places require special boots, gloves and coats to be worn that are available on rent there only. But it leads to additional cost per person of around 200-300rs, per day!
Daily pony rides may cost 100-200 RS or more  extra if you don’t want to visit places on foot!

Dal Lake and Shikara ride –
A visit to Kashmir is incomplete without the famous Shikara ride on the neverending Dal Lake! Amidst scenic views the slow moving Shikara will relax your senses and you wish the trip never ends alike the lake. The lake is surrounded by mountains and the city of Srinagar. Different ghats are there for entry.
Beware of cost if this ride if not included in your package, and make sure you visit charchinar on the same visit. Otherwise a ride to beautiful charchinar the centre of lake will be around 2000rs! Best is take a ride from Ghat no.26 (opposite makai point) nearest to the centre of the lake, costs only RS.500.
While you are busy soaking beauty of the lake, many people selling items on the boat might pester you to no end, fake Kesar(avoid), artificial jewellery, dresses at Meena Bazaar are sold here! But better check and buy!
A stay at houseboat though beautiful and must for couples can be avoided by bachelor group as it’s just like another hotel stay! The place overall is an ideal honeymoon destination!

The never-ending Dal lake
Shikara

Local food
You are greeted on your arrival with the famous kahwa (local black tea) at every place!

A Non-vegetarian’s delight , kashmiri wazwan (especially at Mughal Darbar,like we did) is a must try, a rice plate with meethe Maaz,seekh kabab, Tabak Maaz, Rista, Rogan gosh and Gustaba, will satiate your appetite and soul but mind it – you can’t finish it alone!

Kashmiri wazwan


Roadside biryani (uncooked rice and chicken) and pakora (hygiene questionable) and barbeques (beef, chicken and beef) should be avoided unless from a proper place! Nathu sweets for snacks and Mughal Darbar bakery and restaurant are some famous places with authentic kashmiri cuisine!

Prepaid Sim cards don’t work there so do take a postpaid sim card in your mobile for communication with your near ones. Wifi are available at most of the hotels so you can browse different blogs or search the reviews and enjoy your trip better.

A lot has been and keeps on getting published in the media regarding Kashmir which to our surprise is not even one percent true!

The locals are kind, simple, honest and helpful. Their main course of income is from tourism so they treat them well and make sure that they are well protected! Though kashmiri is the local dialect, mostly everyone knows hindi and urdu! Due to fear related to terrorist attacks and all tourism has suffered as we didn’t find any foreign tourists which is a thing of concern. We indians too dream of visiting foreign locations but I feel no other place can beat the magic of kashmir! Post my Kashmir ki kali experience trip, I had so much deja vu phase feeling, that I came across many movies or song’s locations that might have been shot in kashmir!

Airport photo point with movies shot in kashmir

So do visit and get drenched into the beauty of Dal lake, lose yourself in the valleys full of chinar and deodar trees, sipping kahwa amidst the picturesque snow clad mountains that welcome you with open arms and you never want to leave that place as if you are part of this canvas, destined to be there! Yes I was, maybe you are too, when? that you have to plan because it’s Kashmir calling!